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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys. I just installed my sportlines. I measured my fender right before and imp 26.25in the front and 27.0in in the rear. It took me approx. 3.5 hours but I used power tools, a lift, and 2 friends.
Im super tired so pics will come tomorrow!!!!


First off my process will be a little different than most, but I highly recommend finding a buddy with a lift or hiring a shop for cheap because doing this on the ground would have been extremely more difficult and probably 5 hours worth. I’m not responsible for anything that goes wrong with your install or later effects with your dart, imp simply retelling how my night went.

First, Get the car lifted up and take the wheels off.

I started by:

1). unbolting the speed sensor in the knuckle with a 10mm socket.



2). Unbolt the tie rod end with an 18mm socket. The drive side removed easy, but the passenger I had to stick a t-40 in the end to isolate it.

3). Remove the sway bar link bolt with a 16mm socket.


4). Unclip the brake line and the speed sensor line from the strut

5). removed the bolt attaching the strut to the steering knuckle with a 18mm socket and hold the other side with a inverter torx 12, but I used a 11mm 12point socket



6). Remove the Ball joint with a 16mm socket and a 11mm 12point to hold it from spinning.



7). Pry the lower control arm away from the knuckle and release the ball joint from the knuckle. It takes some funny angles and awkward positions but I will come out



8). If on a lift, lower the car enough to reach the strut tower, and support the rotor and knuckle with a block of wood.


9). on the strut tower, remove the strut retaining Shark clips by separating it with a screwdriver.


10). If on a lift, raise the dart back up to access the strut.

THIS NEXT PART IS DANGEROUS. PLEASE TAKE CAUTION WHEN WORKING WITH SPRINGS!

11). Separate the Strut from the knuckle by pulling up on the strut and down on the knuckle. I sprayed it with Pb blaster and it makes it a lot easier to slide out

12). Take your spring compressor and compress the spring, with a 18mm socket remove the strut top mount and then slide the strut out of the compressor.



13). CAREFULLY LOOSEN THE SPRING! CAREFULLY!!!!

14). Assemble the Eibach boot and pad thingy (the proper word escapes me) by inserting the pad thingy through the bottom of the boot and with the flat piece being the top.



15). Compress the Eibach Spring and slide the strut in place. Slide the boot and pad thingy onto the strut shaft then secure the top with the 18mm nut. Remember to use the factor spring pads.


16). Once you have the strut assembled again loosen the spring and Install back on the car. Installation is straight forward; Make sure everything is torque to Eibach and Factory specs. Follow proper torque techniques when the car is lifted and when the car is compressing the suspension components.


17) For alignment of strut, make sure the top piece is aligned with the hole on the mount to the front hole of the tower.



18). Installation is opposite of disassemble, but those that need a detailed walk through, ill hold your hand!



Place the strut in the tower and finagle it to and shove it back in the knuckle.
Place the bolt through the strut and secure it to the knuckle with you 16mm socket and 12pt.

Work some DIY mechanic magic and get the ball joint back into the knuckle and reassemble the bolt in it with the 18mm socket. BE CAREFUL AND DON’T PINCH YOUR FINGERS.

Tighten the Tie rod, tighten the sway bar link.
Replace the retaining shark clips on top of the strut tower. Chrysler suggests replacing each time they are separated but I didn’t. Even though you should, I can’t control your work, but I’m telling you to get new ones!


For the Rear, it was quite a bit simpler.

1). While securely supported on Jack stands or on a lift, Compress the rear spring and remove.

2). Transfer the factory spring pads to the Eibach springs.



3). Decompress the factory spring. USE EXTREME CAUTION!

4). Compress the Eibach Spring, and slowly decompress it in place on the LCA. It took me a couple times to properly line up the spring in the mounting locations, but the end of the spring seats down in the LCA and will be obvious of the proper location. You can recompress the spring and rotate as needed. Be sure the top and bottom are seated properly and the pads are in place.

5). Place all your wheels back on the car, tighten your wheels down to factory specs but I did mine to 100ft/lbs.



This is my first ever write up, so I’m sure I have typos, grammatical errors, and awkwardly phrased sentences. Feel free to use this as a guide, but if you find a more simple approach please feel free to inform me and I can edit my write up or you can make your own as well. If there are any point I need to elaborate more on or any tips you can give me please help me out!

As a good note, check and retighten the suspension components after a couple weeks or about 3000 miles to make sure everything is functioning properly. Get an alignment and enjoy living the low life

 

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Awesome write up. I won't give you crap about your spelling or grammer. You had measurements when you started. What were they when done?

Thanks for the post.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If I remember correctly, I'm at 25.25 front and 25.5 rear... I'm not 100% positive but I'll spell and grammar check, then add the after measurements to my post when I find my tape measurer.
 

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By the way, Nice looking ride. I love how the white darts look with the dark tint and black wheels.
 

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Great thread. Gonna be very useful to the DIY guys. Too bad I'm mechanically incompetent :/ Oh and the "pad thingy" gave me a good laugh. Why can't science use words like that?
 

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Ok so im putting mine in and im having a lot of trouble releasing the spindle from the control arm. Im doing the job on the ground and I tried prying it and even using a jack to lift the spindle while prying the control arm down and nothing im not getting any results. Thats the only thing thats holding me back. Please if anyone can help me!!
 

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I did mine on jackstands and had trouble getting the control arm/ball joint out of the bottom of the nuckle. If you didn't remove the bolt you need to as the shaft on the ball joint has a slot in it that the bolt engages to prevent it pulling out if it ever gets lose. I use a ratchet strap from the end of the control arm to my jackstand to help hold the control arm down while I used the jack to lift the nuckle up off of the ball joint shaft. It isn't an easy process and like Jake said it is easier if you have help. If you haven't done the rear yet it is way way easier. I did the rears in an hour. The fronts took me about 4 hours but I did it without help. It can be done. Be carefull prying around the rubber boot/seal on the ball joint.
 

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Great write up, thanks.
 

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Guys thank you! With the information you gave me definitely helped. There was a nudge that I had to mess with in order to get that lower control arm to drip. The moment I figured that out the rest was cake. And it is most definitely a 2 person job if you're not doing it in a shop:D:D
 

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Guys thank you! With the information you gave me definitely helped. There was a nudge that I had to mess with in order to get that lower control arm to drip. The moment I figured that out the rest was cake. And it is most definitely a 2 person job if you're not doing it in a shop:D:D
Good write up, did mine on jacks and this helped out.
OK, Lets see the pics of the new stances.
 

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im having trouble unbolting the tie rod anyone else have this problem? it feels like its just spinning and not coming loose

Trick to that is if you do not have a impact gun use a box end wrench to turn the nut and use a torx 30 i believe it is or 25 to hold the ball joint and keep it from spinning when you are turning the nut. Hopefully that makes sense. It was about a year ago since i did mine so i do not remember what were the sizes of everything. Good luck!
 

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Mine didn't ride to much rougher. The Sportline drop was a little lower in the front than I wanted. The little deflectors in front of the front tires drag on everything and the plastics under the front drag a lot too. You really have to be careful going over speed bumps because the car bottoms out on parts unknown behind the front tires.

Not sure how much your chin spoiler will also lower your clearance coming out of driveways.
 

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Hello, my name is Mike. I wanted to say thanks for the writeup on the strut replacement. I was working with my buddy on his dart, and we got stuck on the part where you separated the lower control arm from the knuckle. You mentioned to pry it apart from different angles. We tried and tried and tried, but could only get the pin halfway out the hole before it would not move any further. We also tried jacking up the brake disc with wooden block, and hitting the lower arm with a deadblow hammer. We think it's getting caught on the diameter reduction where the retaining bolt slides. Could you possibly give me some tips or suggestions on how you got yours to separate? You appear to be one of three people that have done this not in a professional garage. The other two go to video of their old parts on the ground. Anyways, Thank you for your time.
 

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Hey Mike,
Welcome to the forumZ.
First question would be did you fully remove the retaining bolt? It is difficult to get the lower control arm down out of the hub. Sometimes it helps to push the hub inward as you are lowering the control arm. What this does is help the ball joint to move to a better angle as the control arm is pulled down. The ball joint doesn't free float so yes it can hang up on the retaining bolt slot. Believe me I know it isn't easy and be careful of the rubber seal on that lower ball joint.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Dave
 
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